An overnight adventure to Arbikie,
I recently purchased a couple of bottles of whisky at auction, a lovely little Blair Athol – a whisky close to my heart – and I also picked up a Glen Scotia. I was given the option to have them delivered at a fee of £18, I don’t think this is extortionate. However, it doesn’t sit right that someone else should get to have my adventure; those are my whiskies, and I should have the right of adventure and the honour to see to guide them home in one piece.
Naturally, to travel all the way past Aberdeen to pick up whisky is towards eccentric, and I wouldn’t want to be accused of that, so I planned out a couple of stops on my way to justify the trip, A couple of distillery visits and dropping in on some family on the way – Conveniently at the perfect location to spend the night and omit camping gear from the packing list.
Tuesday morning comes around, the alarm set for 4 O’clock, to cover the 85 miles from mines to Arbikie before my tour at 14:00. A quick look out the window sent me straight to trainline to find a train that would at least help me avoid the dark. Tickets bought and an alarm set for the more reasonable 8, I set off on the quick jaunt to Inverkeithing to catch the train as far along as Arbroath. Getting off in the coastal town, the air was surprisingly dry, and with that, I set off in search of Arbikie distillery, with a far more leisurely 10-mile cycle ride away.
So far on my travels to distilleries, they tend to find themselves nestled into the land, whether that be in between hillocks, perched upon a river, or coves by the sea. Arbikie stood out due to its location atop a hillside, surrounded not by forests but by extensive agricultural land. As far as distilleries to cycle to, this was pretty lovely, mostly on the national cycle network, quiet farm roads, and undulating hills – until the last 500 metres. which were decidedly uphill. The car park was a lovely layout, instead of the usual painted white lines, the car park was laid out in the gravel by casks, you certainly knew you were arriving at a distillery!
Once inside, the welcome I received was incredibly warm. Met by Pam, my soon-to-be guide, and a chap called Ian, who happened to be one of the founding brothers. I dried off and got changed into my civvies – i.e, out of the Lycra. And ordered myself a latte, where I then got to enjoy the fantastic view they have from their distillery overlooking Lunnan bay, that elevation gain in the last 500 meters now showing off the value it brings to the site – the menu looked tempting too, I opted for coffee on this occasion as time was tight for the tour if food was to be had. Besides I knew I had a mighty sandwich packed away on the bike.
I won’t dive into the tour itself, you should go and enjoy it yourself without me giving the entire thing away. The main take home I got from it though, was a distillery with a dedication to providence I’ve not seen elsewhere and some lofty environmentally friendly practices. Moving towards the whisky, I’ll simply highlight my favourite of the tasting. At Arbikie, they currently produce rye whisky; they are maturing malt whisky, but on our tasting, we had their standard rye whisky, their sherry cask finished Rye, and their ex-peated cask – hands down my favourite. Eye-opening for me as well, how clean and crisp the peat smoke comes through for only being a finish of a cask that previously held peated Islay spirit. The smoke was on the nose, and on the palate, the sweet rye spirit shines through before the smoke returns, like pulling up a seat next to your pals at a campfire. Lovely stuff.
Having cycled there naturally, I didn’t really drink much, a little nosing and a tiny drop on the palate. Despite being sober, and taking a few minutes to eat my phenomenal sandwich. I was unable to avoid a slow-speed crash on the way out. I stepped over the saddle, one turn of the pedal, and before I knew it… I was looking at my bike from the ground in front of it. A flat front tyre and down I went. A check in from one of the distillery team – No doubt followed by him asking colleagues how much I had had – I swear, minimal amounts. Some air in the tyre and off I went in search of my next destination!
Arbikie, well worth the visit, especially if you are travelling by Bikey. I don’t know that rye whisky is going to become my go-to dram, though I loved the peated cask expression; the Gin was phenomenal. As soon as they’ve single malt, I’ll return, hopefully with good company, an appetite, and maybe even a designated driver – or at least some stabilisers!
A great opening day of adventure!